to clarify.
sometimes i write about africa. and when i say sometimes, i mean all the time. because it's always in my head. and yes, the stories are a paradoxical juxtaposition of beauty and horror, life and death, hope and despair. and when i write them, more often than not, it's about the latter parts: the horror, the death, the despair.
maybe this is a part of why that is.
that movie, the constant gardener, that i've been writing about all week, embodies most of the reasons why africa won't leave my head. why the people and the place haunt or grace, whichever way i look at it in my roller coaster moods, my thoughts multiple times daily.
the constant gardener came out in 2005. a british movie with voldemort and rachel weisz. ok fine, obviously it's not really voldemort but dave said it was either the actor who plays him or a twin. only dave would think about the option of voldemort's twin and gripe about it the whole movie.
but we watched it last monday. before it began, the thought went through my mind that i didn't have to watch a movie, that i needed alone time to process the events of the last couple days. my heart raw, my emotions tattered, my mind confused, i just wanted to go to bed and deal with everything in the morning, but as he started it, and the opening scenes of lake turkana's flamingoes flashed across the screen in front of my eyes, i knew i wasn't going anywhere.
i think i've sorta got a thing going on for africa. it's not exactly a fling either. this is one of those "things" with a bit more substance. and no, it's not just about the weather, although i'm a pretty big fan of that too. "things" things with the weather, that is. ;-) it's a bit of a love-hate relationship i think. and i still experience all the emotions of a post-breakup syndrome or something weird along those lines. i know we all do. sean, marcus, jill, bethany, mia, shannon, and all the others.
because every time i see africa again, either in my iphoto or in my art projects, in a movie, in my dorm room, in Salgado's book, a tangled mess of fear, love, passion, life, death, pain, excitement, and terror all compete for my attention. my heart rate jumps and i breathe faster and harder, just like i mentioned in my last post.
so as lake turkana turned into images of niarobi, all that happened again. the cold of our playroom suddenly seemed hot and i felt that longing again. it never really goes away, just sits there waiting under the surface. lurking in the corners of the deepest, most real places of my heart.
i'll spare the details of the movie. go out and rent it.buy it.watch it.feel it. it's a beautiful film full of love, hatred, exploitation, oppression, a tireless pursuit of justice, and all of those things that embody all interactions of the west and africa. the smashing together of my two worlds.
dave was moved. i felt him behind me. not his touch. not his heart rate. but as the death toll mounted and justice was sought i felt the presence in the room, that aura, change.
what got to me wasn't the story of the oppression and exploitation done to the people by the pharmaceutical companies. yeah, i begin to feel guilty when that which normally moves my family and friends doesn't move me. anymore. i'm beginning to see that it doesn't mean i'm calloused like i've thought, but i've dealt with it and now it just moves me to act. on the good days, at least. so i didn't cry about that part of it, though it does stir up the old, hopefully righteous rage and anger at evil and oppression. what stirred the deepest depths of my emotion was the shots of the scenery and the beauty of the place and the place living there.
kibera. the white, beautiful mzungu walking through the tin roofed, mudbrick, slum hand in hand with the children of the slums. talking to them. laughing. smiling. and then i see jill and bethany in the slums, doing the same. i see them talking with the street children, and remember how sophia felt in my arms in the early dawn of kilome rd. and i see again the little girl in burundi playing with jill's hair. i see jill walking in front of my eyes looking through my lens with a little girl's hand in both her own as shiva and aaron rush past. i see bethany and lisa dancing with the girls above the paradise of mstoni ya zamani. the sun setting over the savanna at the family's house i've forgotten, on the way to the coast. athi river base and the giraffes chased across fields greened with new rain. a letter with images of bucket showers and water washing over my eyes. rich women from boston and their cheese. teacher mia. huruma. mumo when i actually enjoyed his incessant attention. attention i'd give anything to experience right now.dan.joseph.cliff.mercy.willie.rachel.kenny.jen.steph.ELLIOTT!!!!.greg.cambie.jill.bethany.me. standing underneath a sky full of stars in machakos singing acapella in all the beauty of young love and life. the hyracks screaming in the trees. building the fire in the cold... and when i say building the fire i mean bethany building the fire and jill saluting me. mariah carey at christmas and baby it's cold outside. and that effing irreplaceable. yeah, about that: buzz's girlfriend... woof. a lesson in skipping rocks that almost resulted in a big lump. on my face. erik and a stupid, insane poster in dodoma. train rides, bus rides, matatu wrecks, and a first class plane ride. plains, trains, and automobiles. the insanity of a shirt about ice in burundi as sweat drips down my brow. a ring of people and then balance game.
and all that can't come without the paradox. civil war at election time. burning rubber on the way to mombasa. the riot police. the army along lake tanganyika from nyanza lac to bujumbura. rocket launchers. kalashnikovs. ak-47s. a drunk policeman in uganda. the boy whose hands were gone in kigoma. the boy whose head was burned in maramvya. an infant in the streets of bujumbura. the boy beaten in nairobi's streets. the stories of street children raped, shot, brutalized. the fight in the morning. wild eyes. sad eyes. reserved eyes. starved eyes. yellow eyes. bloodshot eyes. orphans in congo. women raped by rwanda's criminals/genocidaires in bukavu. the genocide memorial in kigali. insanity. evil. death. destruction. pain. sorrow. my pain. our pain. our tears. our tears and sobs and frustration when we walked past the lady with the baby in nairobi. after a day in burundi when we had given little.
the stark contrasts. the dichotomy as i so often said.
now i know it was the adventure and the memories and the fun and the beauty and the truth. contrasted with the danger, the passion, the pain. and all weaved together in a beautiful conga of our time there. the reds, the blacks, the greens, the blues.
most of all the place. naivasha's sunset framed by buffalo, antelope, and zebra. plains of giraffes and wildebeests. tsavo park and mombasa's swahili coast. the plains of tanzania and the jungles of congo. naivasha lake. kivu lake. nairobi's slums of people packed together in a swirling mass of life brazen and brutally present. riding the dirt bike into the sunset with the wind in my face and a scream erupting from the depths of all i was. the southern night sky. bunyonyi. the rope swing the hills the sail the tents the rain. the sky and the storm rolling in whitecapping the waves. ngong's hills... knuckles in a fist towards the sky. big sky. red dirt. huge, bloodred sun.
yeah, the constant gardener brought all of it back in a way i haven't felt since riding the piki that last night all alone on march 4th, 2007.
my friend summed it up better than i ever could.
"I just have to say how urgently i miss africa this year. I say urgently because I know I'm going back, and every day is a brutal lesson in self-restraint, because I feel that I'm tied to this city by very slender threads that might break without warning at any second, if the city shrinks a little in the cold, or if I pass one more person with one of those cell-phone headsets. This week I've owned a crumbling heart, because it's fixated on my family and friends still in Kenya and TZ, and what a transient, precarious, and vivid (that's the word!) life they live when they're there almost by default. I'm jealous beyond words, and at the same time so frightened for them. I don't think I will ever, ever reconcile this overwhelming lust for danger with my wish for a peace that's universal - but maybe both are appropriate cravings, in a world this unstable."
I also don't think I will ever reconcile this overwhelming lust for danger with this ever-present, overpowering HOPE for PEACE. These memories of skies and sunsets and friends and communion and happiness and love with all the negative, hard, painful things. The peace with the excitement of adventure and ever-present danger.
gods, i miss you africa. bethany. jill. like never before. but it's beginning to be a good miss, like the way you miss an old friend you haven't talked to in a while and probably won't for another while. like the way you miss the good times of high school. or the "good old days" when we played with toy guns under a texas summer sky.
and i think of a quote on a letter that sits open on my bedside table.
"It occurs to me, as it sometimes does, that this day is over and will never be lived again, that we are only the sum of days, and when those are spent, we will not come back to this place, this time, to these people and colors, and i wonder whether to be sad about this or to be happy, to trust that these hours are meant for some kind of enjoyment, as a kind of blessing."
Donald Miller in Through Painted Deserts.
Until tonight, it was a sad miss, without peace. An angry frustration that this mountain is where I am now. A hurt and a painful groaning at the things that made my emotions raw last monday as I watched the film. Because many days, most days, I don't want to be here. I don't want to live this right now.... because often enough, the past is easier or more comfortable, like andrew manion's words about an old room, that you haven't seen in a while.
But I realize that this time is for me, to reconnect, remember, and learn to believe once more. This time is a kind of blessing, just as that time was. And as I sit here and write this, I realize that I couldn't have gone back... shouldn't have gone back, until tonight. This realization. Because before, that desire was just to relive what already occurred, not experience anew, living for a joint liberation. Africa, old friend, thank you. For a happy miss tonight. And an eager expectation.
I await the coming reunions with hope and excitement.
Thank you, constant gardener for the reminder to diligently tend to the plants in my own garden as God sends the rain.
The hardest thing and the right thing are the same. and tonight it was letting go.
to the coming newness.
oh You make all things new.
the daylight seems to want you.